Leaving Mottola isn’t the prettiest part of the trail — heavy traffic and a few roundabouts don’t help. Once I’m out in the open countryside, I get spotted by a pack of shepherd dogs escorting a flock a few hundred meters away. There are six or seven of them, pretty nervous, and they make it very clear that I shouldn’t get any closer.

Once the animals are out of sight, I pick up the path again, which stays flat or gently downhill all the way into Massafra. It’s also nicely shaded since you’re walking through the Bosco di Sant’Antuono (signs at the entrance also call it “Bosco delle lucciole” — Firefly Wood) along a wide, well-trodden, and marked trail.

Thanks to a detour to hunt for a geocache, I realize I’m near the WWF Monte Sant’Elia Oasis, which I decide to check out. There’s a large farmhouse with trulli, and an info board explains that it belonged to a Puglian philosopher who was a disciple of Gandhi. He lived there for years before donating it to the WWF in the ‘90s. At first glance, it looks like a guesthouse project that never really took off and is now in semi-abandonment.

The final stretch of the stage continues downhill through an olive grove with large, widely spaced trees, leading right into Massafra. From here, it’s best to rely on your GPS because the trail markers aren’t fully up to date.

After one last steep climb into the town center, I arrive at the B&B “Sotto la volta” — a mid-to-high-end place right in the heart of Massafra. The manager greets me with the warmth of a ravine in mid-August (not exactly cheerful), but the room has all the comforts (AC, TV, etc.), plus a large rooftop solarium/terrace and a generous breakfast included.

It also ranks among the most expensive stops of my trip (40€ for a double room used as single), because on this stage — like others, especially on the Via Ellenica — there are no hostels or cheaper shared accommodations.

Both the infopoint — which organizes guided tours of the area — and the two Cammino Materano-affiliated restaurants are closed on Mondays, which is clearly not the best day to be in Massafra.

I visit the cathedral and wander around the town center, which straddles the narrow Gravina di San Marco ravine and offers several panoramic spots where you can see the plain stretching toward Taranto, plus the sunset behind the distant hills.

For dinner, I decide to splurge a bit more than usual, tempted by the great reviews, catchy name, and outdoor terrace. I choose “Il Ritrovo degli Ostinati” (38€ per person for bruschetta + mixed antipasti + mixed grill + glass of wine). The location, service, and food all live up to the price.