The first stage of the Via Lucana, about 18 km long, connects Matera to Montescaglioso and mostly follows the same route as the first stage of the Via Ellenica. As you leave the city of stones, you can enjoy one last look at the beautiful old town overlooking the ravine, before heading out along the ridge.
Soon after, a long and gentle descent begins, gradually taking you — over roughly 14 km — from about 450 meters down to around 100, through open fields and olive groves.

The final stretch, however, inevitably goes uphill — and that’s pretty much a theme along the whole Via Lucana! Since most towns are perched on hilltops, you’ll quickly get used to starting your days with a nice descent and wrapping them up with a good climb.

L’ultimo tratto sarà invece inevitabilmente in salita, e questo è una costante per tutta la via Lucana: dato che i paesi sono situati sulle sommità collinari, di conseguenza ci si abitua subito a iniziare le giornate con una bella discesa e a terminarle con una bella salita.

Since this stage is fairly easy and short, I took a little detour that led me all the way down to the Gravina stream. I definitely recommend it, especially if you’re walking during the warmer months — dipping your feet (or even taking a quick swim!) in the water can be a real treat. There’s also a rock-hewn church nearby.

Disclaimer: when I passed through, it was mid-winter and the water level was already low. I can’t guarantee that the stream still has water in summer — it might dry up completely.

The detour starts around km 10, near the old “Parco dei Monaci” train station (you’ll see it marked on my GPX tracks). It’s not immediately obvious that it used to be a train station — the place is out in the middle of nowhere, and it takes a bit of imagination to picture trains passing through there. But if you look closely, you’ll still spot some remains of the old railway tracks by the former level crossing, and you can follow the line’s direction thanks to a few scattered bits of the original fencing that used to border the rails.

The station itself has been recently renovated — a small pink two-story building. You’ll come across other stations later along the Via, most of them much more dilapidated than this one. They’re all part of the old Matera–Montalbano Jonico railway, which was shut down in the 1970s (you can find more info on this site).

The detour is short, and even including a break by the stream, it shouldn’t add more than about an hour to your stage. Once you’re done resting, you just retrace your steps and continue the route from the station.

Another nice spot to stop is about 3 km further on, right next to the trail, near a large abandoned quarry. There’s a small raised wooden hut built for birdwatching — perfect for a shaded break (very handy if you’re walking in summer and need to cool off for a bit). You can enjoy the view and, with a bit of luck, spot some of the many birds that inhabit the area. (This spot is also marked on my GPX tracks.)

Montescaglioso overlooks the trail from the top of its hill, and the last 4 km are a steady but not too tough climb, following for a while the path of a modern elevated aqueduct running among eucalyptus trees.

The town is small but lively, partly thanks to a kind of “reflected tourism” it enjoys due to its closeness to Matera. Being just a few minutes’ drive from the city of stones makes it a good choice for visitors looking for slightly lower prices while still being able to spend their days in the regional capital.
The atmosphere is authentic, the old town is well maintained, and you really shouldn’t miss spending at least an hour visiting the Benedictine Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo. As of January 2026, the official Cammino Materano website still lists the Environmental Education Center as the contact point for visits, but management has actually been taken over by a local cooperative. You can visit the abbey on your own or book a guided tour.
Admission is inexpensive — just 5 euros — and I even got a small discount as a guest of the albergo diffuso “Il Borgo Ritrovato,” where I decided to stay overnight. The place is modern, very comfortable, and offers an excellent breakfast.